Garden Party at Sapiston

On the 16th July  wine society members enjoyed a Garden Party at the home of Giles and Claire Smith. Wynn was our chef, committee members provided extra food, Giles ordered and served an interesting range of wines and members enjoyed a fine lunch in the sun. Thank you very much to Giles and Claire for inviting us to such a lovely location.

Meanwhile we offer our best wishes to all members at this very difficult time, and hope that everyone stays safe and healthy over the coming weeks and months.

June tasting

13 June 2022

The tasting at Great Barton Village Hall will start, as usual, at 7.30pm.

Tony Wellings, identified my many as the ‘Australian Sommelier’ will present eight wines this evening. Four will be white and four red, all hailing from Australia and New Zealand.

Again this evening, members will benefit from a subsidised ticket cost of £8.50 per person; importantly, don’t forget to bring your glasses – the drinking sort, that is!

For those that enjoy the wines, members will have the opportunity on the evening to purchase supplies at discounted prices ranging from £12 to £22.00.

Cheques for tickets to Hazel please by 3 June remembering to put a note of the event to which it relates on the reverse.

What’s on for July? Plans are being put together for something a bit different by way of an outside event – due consideration being given to the vagaries of the weather. Watch this space for more details as the arrangements come together.

Meal at West Suffolk College

We are delighted to be going for the first time to the West Suffolk College for a meal, on Wednesday 25th May. Two members will choose wines to accompany our courses and members will decide which they feel best compliments the food. If you are interested in being one of the two anonymous wine choosers for this event, please let Wynn know as soon as possible. There will be a generous budget for the four wines you will need to select, and a worthwhile prize for the winning chooser (as well as a prize for the runner-up!) If you would like to have a quick chat about what is involved, please feel free to give Wynn a call on 07580 132568.

Please remember to bring your tasting glasses. We look forward to what should be a great evening.



		

Meanwhile we offer our best wishes to all members at this very difficult time, and hope that everyone stays safe and healthy over the coming weeks and months.

Ma Voiture est en Panne! (My car has broken down)

We had our first holiday in Provence way back in the 1980s when we stayed in the attractive village of Sablet in the Vaucluse. While there we discovered the excellent wines made in this village – as good as many from the famous names of the neighbouring villages of Gigondas and Vacqueras, but (at that time) much less expensive. A short walk away from our accommodation was the Domaine de Piaugier where Andrew spent a happy afternoon tasting and choosing several vintages. On subsequent holidays in Provence we always made a point of stopping at Sablet en route to stock up.

The last occasion we were there was ten years ago. There is a square in the centre of Sablet – actually more of a triangle set on a slope – and like most French villages, the centre is quite busy, particularly in the mornings. Andrew made a sharp right turn to access a vacant parking space and stalled on the junction, blocking the road through the village in both directions. The car (a Renault) decided to have a tantrum and would not restart.

Nothing we tried worked and French drivers are not known for their patience on the road – panic! Judith phoned the RAC and explained the problem. Luckily the person was English and said he would arrange for someone to come from Avignon – some 40 km away – and would be with us in an hour or so.

At this point we were beginning to feel rather hungry so Judith went to a nearby restaurant and asked about lunch. The proprietor made up a cold platter which Judith took to the car, together with a beer. Andrew sat in the back of the car, where there was a pull-down table, to enjoy his lunch while waiting for the mechanic, repeating to motorists ‘Ma voiture est en panne’. He received various comments from passers-by who seemed to think that he had parked in this inconsiderate manner to have a picnic! Bon appetit! L’anglais fou! . . .

At last the Renault man arrived and unlocked the steering in about three minutes. Andrew was keen to leave the scene immediately, but Judith said: we have come to Sablet to buy some wine – we are going to buy some wine! We chose our Piaugier wines at the Maison des Vins, and departed, some three hours later than planned.

Several years later, at a tasting presented by Charles Eaton, of Nethergate Wines, we were delighted to discover that he offers two Sablet wines: Sablet Rouge Piaugier (£12.97) and Sablet Reve de Marine Domaine de Piaugier (£16.42). So we can relive our adventure in Sablet at home which, in retrospect, actually seems quite amusing.

Fun While it Lasted!

After our evening on Portuguese wines, in May 2019, member and friend, Alan Wainwright started ordering direct from Portugal Vineyards fairly regularly for himself and Annie, the Pharaohs, and Peter and me. We were able to enjoy excellent value and stocked up on assorted wines including some of the Offley Rosé Port we had on that evening. We even had a go at random sampling of some of the more expensive wines, sometimes choosing for the distinctly dubious reason that their labels featured pictures of a bird! Some were better than others. I personally am still enjoying the Porta 6 red wine as a reliable light-weight red. The photo shows some of our remaining bottles.

Sadly, post-Brexit, those wines, which were costing us about £4 per bottle, will now cost about the same as in any supermarket here. Portugal Vineyards explained:

“The wines are subject to excise duty and for wines up to 15% alcohol volume it’s £2.23 per bottle of 750ml. Sparkling wines have a different excise, it should be £2.86 per bottle of 750ml. For a fortified wine such as a Port Wine it is £2.97 per bottle of 750ml.” 

Ah well, it was fun while it lasted!

Thinking of food pairing, we have enjoyed some Maison Bleue Léa takeaway meals. The Xavier Santana Muscatel went brilliantly with their Fig Panna Cotta, so much so that unusually for me I had the same dessert twice in a row. But I’m afraid you cannot test this yourself because the Panna Cotta is no longer on their menu.

Finally, I keep a five year diary and read back from previous years each day as I write. I cannot help noticing that periodically the standard of my handwriting deteriorated markedly; this always happened on WSFWS evenings. I do hope it is not too long before this happens again! 

Bushfires and Wine in the Adelaide Hills

by Maggie Cohen

I am – in some ways – fortunate enough to have two children who live in wine producing areas of Australia, although currently it does not feel very fortunate, given the impossibility of visiting them due to the strict Antipodean Covid-related border restrictions.

My son lives in Adelaide in South Australia, a state with a large and varied range of wine regions, many within easy reach of the city. These include the Barossa, McLaren Vale, the Clare Valley, the Eden Valley and the Adelaide Hills. Apologies to members who may be familiar with the area, but Adelaide is not often on a British itinerary.

I want to share with you some experiences of the Adelaide Hills region and the recent bush fire disaster there. The Adelaide Hills rise up directly east of Adelaide, reaching about 3000 feet in altitude, and are visible from my son’s house. Altitude, combined with proximity to the ocean, results in a cool climate region, in Australian terms. It is a scenically very beautiful area and also famous for its orchards, particularly of cherries and apples, cheese production (eg “Udder Delights” and the Woodside Wrights) and fine dining, often in restaurants attached to wineries.

The majority of vineyards are quite small family businesses, many of which were established in the 1980s and ‘90s, as “boutique” wineries. Many have ‘cellar doors’ where you can taste wines and buy directly. They benefit from the local conditions to produce varietals which prefer a cooler climate, such as Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Grüner Veltliner, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris and a richer, medium bodied style of Shiraz, which they sometimes call Syrah to reflect the more European style.

When I arrived in Adelaide in early January 2020, there was only a hint of smoke in the city from the bush fires which were still burning in the Hills, but by then there were also catastrophic fires on Kangaroo island to the South, devastating the rare wildlife, as well as their vineyards and claiming two people’s lives.

The fires in the Adelaide Hills were at their height just before Christmas, with December 20th the worst day, but they continued to burn for weeks. It was estimated that a third of the Adelaide Hills vineyard production was wiped out by the fires, particularly affecting the area around Cudlee Creek, Lenswood and Woodside, where many of the smaller enterprises are located.

The fires destroyed winery buildings, cellar doors and restaurants and family homes, but perhaps the most disastrous of all was the destruction of the vines themselves. At that time of year there are densely green, large canopies of vines and one might not expect them to burn easily but the fire just went right through them. Unlike a frost or disease which might wipe out production for a season, it takes about 7 years to rebuild a vineyard. Some damaged vines, initially thought totally destroyed have come back to life with irrigation but many vineyards were lost, along with their family homes.

What happened then was a remarkable response at the official, community and personal level. There were widespread “benefit“ events, state and federal funding and individual support for the many sectors which had been impacted by the fires. The Adelaide daily paper ran a major campaign. The wineries asked people to buy up the stocks of wine available from past vintages in order to fund rebuilding. I have a favourite independent wine shop in Adelaide, – East End Cellars,(see below,)where they were eager to support my wish to buy wine from affected wineries, which in my case were Vinteloper (www.Vinteloper.co.au) and Turon (www.turonwines.com.au).

Australians were encouraged to visit the cellar doors and vineyard restaurants as soon as they re-opened. However, no sooner had some managed to get straight enough to open, when they were closed again by the Covid lockdown, which lasted until May in South Australia. The state and international borders have remained closed since then, which may actually have assisted the wineries as tourism and buying locally has been very much encouraged.

Few of the boutique wineries export their wines overseas, so those are rarely available in the UK. However, Majestic had a Bushfire Fundraiser selling rare vintages from the very badly damaged Bird in Hand,(Red Winemaker of the Year at the 2019 International Wine Challenge), with profits going to the South Australian Country Fire Service. (www.birdinhand.com.au). Wine Direct (www.winedirect.co.uk) have wines from Bird in Hand and Pike and Joyce, also fire affected.

There are plenty of Adelaide Hills wines available in the UK, sometimes from medium sized businesses whose main production may be elsewhere but who have vineyards in the Hills. I note that the Wine Society has Adelaide Hills chardonnays from Wirra Wirra (HQ McLaren Vale) and Bleasdale (Langhorne Creek.) Majestic have wines from Shaw and Smith (an excellent producer), Petaluma and Kangarilla Road. However, please note that these wines are generally not for casual quaffing and have a price tag which reflects their quality!

Please do buy Adelaide Hills wines. The chardonnays have nothing to do with those big fat oily Aussie chardies of yesteryear! And by buying them you may also be helping very committed wine makers and families to rebuild after a frightening and disastrous year in which their lives and livelihoods have been put at risk, – followed by Covid.

Brexit Briefing

by Wynn Rees

Like many of you I read the January newsletter from Guy Boursot in which he mentioned the changes which Brexit has brought to the way we are able to import wine from the EU, and several people have asked for clarification about the details so I thought that it might be useful to set out a short and clear guide.

When we were in the EU we paid the duty on our purchases in Europe in the country where we shopped – mostly at miniscule rates – and then were able to import it in person without paying any UK duty. Technically there was no limit, but the guidelines were set at 90 litres per person for wine. Now that we have left the EU everything has changed and the government has set a Duty Free allowance which is also an Import Allowance, and applies to all purchases of alcohol whether from supermarkets, wine merchants, wine producers or the new duty-free shops that will be found on ferries, in ports etc.

It has to be said that the new import limits from EU are not as tiny as those from other countries round the world (from which we can bring only a handful of bottles) but they do represent a massive reduction.

The new personal allowance consists of the following:

18 litres of still wine (24 bottles)
Plus: 4 litres of spirits OR 9 litres of sparkling wine or fortified wine or other alcoholic drinks under 22% ABV
(The spirits/sparkling allowance can be split into eg 2 litres of spirits and 4.5 litres of sparkling or fortified – or any other combination – BU T unused allowance in the second category cannot be used to bring back extra still wine, or vice versa)

So – it could have been worse, but the allowances set do mean, I’d suggest, that it’s the end of the ‘booze cruise’, or should I say ‘wine run’ for many people – especially those wine lovers who previously packed their car boot to restock the racks, or those who shopped for family weddings. As before, all drink imported in person must be for personal use or gifts.

Sadly there is no helpful mechanism for bringing back a few extra bottles and choosing to pay the duty. Technically it can be done by declaring it and paying on line prior to your return to the UK , BUT if you import anything over the allowance the duty becomes payable on ALL the wine – so you can bring back 24 bottles without charge, but bring back 25 and you will have to pay duty on all 25 bottles – and VAT at 20% I suspect. With duty on still wine currently set at £2.23 and sparkling at £2.86 that’s quite a big disincentive.

And what about that mail-order wine that some people have been enjoying for years? Well, that never was technically legal, as it was not imported in person, but our membership of the EU meant that freight was almost never subject to checks, so it became something of a loophole. Most mail-order sellers have stopped sending to the UK as the new regulations, bureaucracy and costs are prohibitive. One or two have organised things so that they send wine with the VAT and duty paid. This has added several pounds to each bottle, and, with their transport costs of at least £1 per bottle, many wines are now more expensive than in the UK (where some of the additional costs are mitigated by the volumes imported and large-scale set-ups).

So what are the implications of all this? Members of the wine trade both in the UK and the EU are saying that the costs and complications caused by Brexit mean that we are likely to see a much reduced range of wines in the UK, with many small concerns being squeezed out – and there is likely to be an across the board increase of around £1.50 per bottle on wine in general. Those who voted for Brexit must no doubt have decided there are overwhelming benefits, but it seems to be ‘Bonjour Tristesse’ and certainly no good news for wine lovers.

So perhaps the best we can do is to make good use of our allowances when travelling back to the UK from holidays (when we can, once again) and make sure we look out for good deals and offers here in the UK. Members are encouraged to share any thought via this website. I have just sent for a good value mixed case and will report back on it soon!

Pueblo Blanco… white village

by David Payne

It was probably in 1980 that we drove to Ronda an old Moorish town in southern Spain, noted for straddling a deep and precipitous gorge. This inland area of Malaga province is arid and hot in summer. The scenery is dramatic and the countryside peppered with ‘white villages’, so-called, because that’s what they are, white-washed to reflect the heat of the sun.

We would have the occasional lunch out, as a treat (probably not regarded as such by our boys James and john, who would rather have stayed by the pool), and chose to visit a rather swish looking place near one of the villages. How we chose it, heaven knows, there was no Trip Advisor, but there was an additional and unexpected ‘attraction’ in the form of a traveling bullring. We must have stumbled upon ‘Una Fiesta Brava’ because the village had a distinctly festive ambience, with many women and girls dressed in alluring flamenco-style polka-dot dresses.

The idea of the bullfight did not appeal, but we did get caught up in the ambiance. As a consequence, whist there is no way we would have wanted to see the bullfight in close-up, we did get to sneak a view from the nearby hillside, where we could hear the pasadobles and the roar of the crowd, without the gore.

What we had for lunch escapes me entirely; we knew we had to have a white wine for refreshment, but were doubtful whether it would be pleasurable – this was not so many years after you could buy a bottle of sparkling white wine for half a crown, and still wines often had a brownish tinge through oxidation which rendered them distinctly unpleasant. I probably sought advice, and accepted the recommended bottle of Viña Sol.

What a revelation! Very pale and limpid in the glass, clean and fresh on the nose: on the palate, a fresh mouthfeel with a suggestion of green apple, dry, but without stinging acidity. Oh my, on that hot, dry day, how we enjoyed it! It was only later that we came to realise we should not have been surprised by this ‘cool climate’ delight. It was from Familia Torres, a Spanish producer we have learned to respect for appealing wines at reasonable prices. Red, white and rosé, I doubt there is a dud among them and their ‘quality wines’ are worth the premium.

Viña Sol is made from Parellada, an indigenous Spanish variety widely used in Cava, there must be other still white wines in which it is used, but I’m not aware of them. In 2012, Viña Sol celebrated 50 years of production and whilst the label may have been spruced up (and long-since lost the side-line ‘Spanish Chablis’) it continues to be an excellent refresher for a hot summer’s day.

In the UK, Viña Sol is very widely available in supermarkets. It is priced between £6.00 (Morrisons offer price) and £7.70 (Waitrose). Sadly, there is no Viña Sol in my cellar… I must look out for an offer price a bit closer to home than Morrisons.

White village, Bullring, Restaurant
White village, Bullring, Restaurant
Ronda, atop a precipitous gorge
Ronda, atop a precipitous gorge
The way we were
The way we were
2012, 50 year anniversary of Viña Sol
2012, 50 year anniversary of Viña Sol
Dressed for La Fiesta Brava
Dressed for La Fiesta Brava

Members – keep in touch!

Greetings to all members of the West Suffolk Fine Wine Society! I hope that you are all keeping safe as our troubled times continue towards winter. I’m sure that, like me, you will have been missing our programme of tastings, meals and other events. Just before lockdown in March we had finalised our new website and begun to use it, but of course all the information on it soon became redundant as everything had to be cancelled. We had the opportunity now, though, to make good use of the website as a means of communicating with each other with news and views relevant to our shared interests in wine, food and travel.

Starting from now, we will be publishing information, reviews and recommendations regularly here on the website – and you are all invited to contribute. Topics might include individual wines you have discovered and can recommend; good suppliers of wines and special offers; restaurants you have visited and provide great food in a safe environment; trips or days out which you can recommend – and even recipes and so on. Contributions don’t need to be particularly lengthy or literary, but just something that is likely to interest other members.

If you would like to contribute please email me at: wynn.rees@btinternet.com. Give the piece a title and the name of the author. I will act as sub-editor and make sure that any typos etc are corrected before publication. I look forward to hearing from you – and in the meantime please check the website regularly for updates.

With best wishes,

Wynn

Offer from the Big Red Wine Company

James Bercovici last visited WSFWS in September 2019 to present a flight of wines from Northern Italy. The wines were widely enjoyed, as reflected in the member purchases.

James recently made contact to offer members a discount of 10% on orders of 12+ bottles, which may be mixed, valid until 14 November 2020.

There would be no delivery charge.

James offers a ‘featured’ rather than a general wine list at https://www.bigredwine.co.uk/OP/RetailList.pdf His Rhone wines, though, are particularly seductive.

You can make your selection from there or contact James on 01638 510803, he will be happy to help you.

He’s available most days, from 10am until 3pm.